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Help Feed the Bees – Sunday 11 a.m.

bees-Andy-DSC05061-600We can use your help this Earth Day, Sunday April 23rd at 11 a.m. at Whitecliff Park in Crestwood., Missouri.

Crestwood has been designated a Bee City USA and the Boy Scouts have built a bee hive at Whitecliff and the bees will soon be arriving.

What we are trying to do at the Whitecliff Recreation Center is provide them with plenty of pollinator plants for them to make their honey and survive the winter.

If you have an hour to spare, we can use your help plating.
Adults, Boy/Girl Scouts and really any one who can dig a hole is welcome.
If you have any questions, email beautifycrestwood@gmail.com

Whitecliff Recreation Center
9245 Whitecliff Park Ln
Crestwood, MO 63126

 

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Compost Program at MoBot

There’s a free program about compost at the Missouri Botanical Garden on November 10th – 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. and includes a free lunch.

compost-black-gold

Click on this link to get the seminar brochure.

You do need to signup ahead of time.

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Dr. Lincoln Brower – Monarchs

Dr. Lincoln Brower has just posted a new program on the Monarch Migration via YouTube. Unfortunately, the news is not good. While the population was up last year, 2016 looks bleak for a number or reasons.
(https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tTGCjYCrYf4)

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Tom Terrific – Yard of the Month — Beautify Crestwood

Story by Josie Green May 2016 – 9016 Robyn Rd. 63126 Every year at the close of the growing season Tom Krauska, aka Tom Terrific, begins preparing a garden party for butterflies by collecting seeds from his milkweed plants. In February he starts about 900 plants in his basement. He also saves hundreds of seeds […]

via Tom Terrific – Yard of the Month — Beautify Crestwood

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Missouri Botanical Garden Notes

September 1, 2015

Cosmos-sulphureus-ladybird – 12 to 18″
Low growing – lots of color late in the year.

Cosmos-sulphureus-ladybird

Rudbeckia-missouriensis  – falls over so give it room – still blooming, but no insects on it.

rudbeckia-missoureinsis

Shining Blue Star – this one they cut down to the ground – others they kept large.

Shining-Blue-Star

Purple Dome New England Aster – this is not trimmed – about 48″wide and 30″tall. I’m going to replace a lot of my NEA with this variety.

NEA-purple-dome-not-trimmed

Rudbeckia fulgida var. sullivantii Goldstrum – seems more upright than Missouriensis.

rudbeckia-goldstrum

 

Partridge Pea – notice that they cut theirs back about 50% – this keeps it from flopping over.

partridge-pea

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Save the Monarch – Butterfly Gardening

monarch-skipper-800

Tom Terrific will present the “Ten Commandments of Butterfly Gardening” program at the Crestwood Community Center, 9245 Whitecliff Park Ln, Crestwood, MO 63126.

The date is Saturday – May 23rd and the program will begin at 10 A.M.and will last until 11:30 A.M.

The program is free and is geared mainly toward adults, but interested children are welcome. This would be an excellent program for Boy and Girl Scouts interested in setting up a butterfly garden.

Tom will show you how to attract and keep butterflies in your yard, patio or apartment balcony. He will talk about site selection, preparation, host and nectar plants, native plants, sun/shade and lots more.

Tom will also talk about what people can do to help the Monarch butterfly whose population is at historic lows.

After the program you are invited to tour Tom’s butterfly gardens in Crestwood to see the 100 butterfly plant species that he grows.

Tom uses pictures, video and hands-on exhibits to teach participants everything they need to know to create a butterfly paradise.

His website www.ButterflyGardening.org is a good place to checkout ahead of time.

He personally guarantees that you will find the program – Terrific!

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Seed to Plant – Shaw Nature Reserve

I took a course at the Shaw Nature Reserve on the process they use to collect seeds and all the steps to finally potting up the plant. Here are a few notes from that class.

Seed Collection

  • Collect seeds when they are ripe and are ready to fall off the plant.
  • Put the seeds in a cardboard box or paper bag and let them dry for a couple of weeks. Don’t put them in a very hot sunny location. Temperature + humidity should not go over 150 degrees.
  • There are many ways to get the seeds out of the flower head – crushing with wooden mallet, stepping on them.
  • They then use various size screens to sift out the seeds.

Cold Stratification.

  • October 1st is when they start this.
  • In general, they keep seeds in the refrigerator for three months, so they can then plant the seeds around January 1st.
  • They use a mix of 2/3 peat moss and 1/3 fine sand – not construction sand.
  • They moisten this mixture a lot until it is dripping wet.
  • They put the seeds in a zip-lock bag. Mark on the bag the name of the plant and the date.
  • Grab a handful of the mix and squeeze out the excess water and put in in with the seeds. You may need another handful to have enough to cover and mix well with the seed.
  • Seal up the bag and mix it well.
  • After 45 days check the bags and look for mold. If you see some, break up the mold in the bag with your hands.
  • Put this in the refrigerator – not the freezer.

Scarification

Some seeds need a way to break that outer coat. This is mainly for legumes. You can either put them between two pieces of sand-paper or try putting them in boiling water for 24 hours. Then do a 2 week cold-stratification.

 Sowing Seed

  • They use PRO-MIX BX W/MYCORRHIZAE as the seed starting medium. Note- I have found this at “Worms Away.” You can also find this at Bayer’s Gardens.
  • 2016 – they have started using a product from Bio-Organics.com. Here’s what they told me, “Promix has 2 species of fungi so we decided to add more. We buy a powder from bio organics that has 18 species. It is really working well. Plants are really growing well.”
  • Wet this mixture first as it is very dry.
  • For new seeds they use new trays or ones that have been cleaned with 10% bleach.They want to keep disease to a minimum.
  • Place it in a shallow tray. They don’t want a deep tray so that it is easier to heat.
  • Press the soil down a little, but don’t make it tight. Make sure that soil is below the lip of the container.
  • Take the seeds and peat moss out of the baggie and put them on top of the soil.
  • Cover the soil with a light coating of soil. Small seeds may not any covering at all.
  • Water everything.
  • They then use a temperature controlled heat mat. They keep it at 70 degrees. They use 70 degrees for ALL the seeds – Scott W. Note – my lights with the plastic cover keep the soil at 74 degrees. When I use the heat mat, the soil temperature goes int0 the 80-85 degree range which my Tropical Milkweed seems to like.
  • They water 3-4 times a day from the top using a watering can. They use well water. Note – this seems like a pain – I prefer using the plastic lid and watering from the bottom.
  • When there are true leaves, that’s the 2nd set of leaves, they transplant.
  • They transplant into a mix from the St. Louis composting, but are not excited about it as it is irregular in size and quality. Note – I will probably use the same Pro-Mix.
  • They also put 2 to 4 plants together instead of trying to break apart individual plants. They say that the plants do better this way. It certainly makes it easier to transplant. They said they did a test with some plants and that the group of plants did better than the individual plants. Note – this would be an interesting test.
  • They also add Osmocote to the top of the soil mix, about a hundred pellets per pot,  but said they are going to just add it to the soil in the future.
  • The pots they use when transplanting are not cleaned, but are just reused old pots.
  • They use a fan for air circulation.
  • They said that they also use liquid fertilizer, but I’m not sure why since they also use Osmocote. That might be an interesting experiment and try different combinations.
  • They have lights on from 5 a.m. to 8 p.m.
  • Purple and Common Milkweed need larger pots.
  • Tuberosa is fine in a smaller pot.

 

Other Resources

Book – Growing and Propagating Wildflowers – William Cullina

 

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