The Complete Guide to Saving Seeds

I am going through the new book, “The Complete Guide to Saving Seeds” and find it impressive.

It not only has general information on seeds and plants, but also specific information about each plant species.

Here are some of my notes from the book:

Cleome
2 weeks stratification + 80/70 degrees day and night with light.

Coreopsis
Stratify most species 3 to 8 weeks.

Dianthus
Two the three week germination at 60-70 degrees.

Echinacea
Stratify for five weeks. Germinates in 3 to 4 weeks – 60 to 65 degrees in the dark.

Gaillardia
Germinate in two to three weeks at 70 degrees

Gomphrena – Globe Amaranth
Never store below 60 degrees. Germinate in light 70-75 degrees.

Liatris – Blazing Star
Stratify for 12 weeks. Germiante in two weeks at 70 degrees.

Lobelia
Germinate in light – 3 weeks

Rudbeckia
Stratify 3 weeks. Germinate in light – 3 weeks.

Salvia
Stratify 3 weeks. Germinate in light  - 1 to 3 weeks at 68 degrees.

Verbena
Stratify Verbena stricta and rigida for 4 weeks. Sow Verbena hastata at 41 degrees. Verbena bonareinsis should be germinated in darkness. Germinate at 75 degrees – 1 to 3 weeks.
 

Butterfly Gardening Video

These are the basics from my Ten Commandments of Butterfly Gardening book. I have changed my list a bit as I learn more, so please come to one of my free talks to get the latest information.

Local Hardiness Zones and Global Warming

One would think that with all the information you see on global warming that it would impact everyone’s local growing situation. In some cases it does and some it doesn’t. It depends on where you live and even in which county you live.

If you look at the data from the University of Missouri annual average temperature, it looks like we naturally have a wide change in average temperatures.

On the other hand if you look at the data from the Arbor Day Foundation, it shows that while many of the counties show increases in temperature, some do not. It almost looks like there are waves of heat across our country with cooler bands in-between.

What this means for you depends on where you live. Likely you may be able to grow some plants that never would have made it in the past.

New 2012 USDA Hardiness map

The USDA just came out with a new 2012 map which is somewhere in between the Arbor Day Map and the 1990 map.

The USDA says, “The new map is generally one 5-degree Fahrenheit half-zone warmer than the previous map throughout much of the United States. “

The map is at this link: http://planthardiness.ars.usda.gov

and includes a zip code search function.

It’s interesting to note that if you live in the city of St. Louis, your zone is 6B, but if you live in the county it is 6A

You can download high-quality maps at this link.
http://planthardiness.ars.usda.gov/PHZMWeb/Downloads.aspx

Butterfly Plants for School Gardens

 If you’re thinking of planting a butterfly garden for a school, I’ve put together a number of my best practices. I’ve put in at least ten school butterfly gardens in the St. Louis area and learned quite a lot in the process. Many of my plants and practices that I do personally in my own garden are not optimal for a school garden. Here’s my list of best practices for a school butterfly garden.

• Include plants which take less maintenance.
  Putting in the garden is the easy part. The question then becomes, “Who is going to maintain the garden?” Who will pull the weeds, water the plants, clean up the garden in the spring and take care of the garden in the summer. This is no easy chore and why many teachers shy away from these extra responsibilities. While buddleia is a great butterfly attractor, it needs to be deadheaded on a regular basis for it to keep blooming. Also avoid any plants which have the word “invasive” in their description.
• You need to get at least one adult to commit to taking care of the garden.
  It doesn’t make any sense to have a garden and not have anyone willing to do the upkeep. Ideally you can get someone who will come in over the summer when school is out to do the watering and weeding.
• You want lots of plants which will bloom in the fall.
  Since most kids are out of school by the end of May, all of the summer blooming flowers will be gone by the time they come back in late August/early September. You want as many plants as possible which will bloom during the fall.
• Water the plants in well.
  When you first put in your plants make sure that all plants get a healthy dose of water. The first month is crucial so make sure they are well-watered that first month.
• Use lots of mulch.
  Mulch will keep out weeds and reduce the need for watering. When you’re done planting, cover the bare areas with mulch.
• Put in paths and edging
  You need to define the garden so kids will know where they can and cannot walk. Kids are enthusiastic and will walk right over your new plants unless you clearly indicate to them  where they are supposed to walk. Walkways will also keep the kids shoes clean for when they go back into the classroom. Raised beds would be one way to do this. Also the maintenance crew will be less liable to “Roundup” the garden if it is plainly marked.
• Locate the garden close to a water outlet.
  With summers getting hotter and drier lately you will not only need access to water when you put in the plants, but also someone willing to water once a week if it doesn’t rain during the summer. You will need to be able to run a hose to the garden. You’ll probably need a special tool to turn on the water.
• Sun. Sun, Sun
  You want a location with as much sun as possible. Put tall plants in the back so they don’t over-shadow the smaller plants. Try for six or more hours sun if possible.
• Consider the ultimate size of the plants.
  Many plants start out small, but may ultimately cover a large area. Keep the larger plants away from the edges. The first couple of years you can fill in with annuals.
• Buy good soil if possible.
  Most soil in St.Louis is terrible – more of a potting clay then good for new plants. I like a mix of good topsoil and compost. I also like to add fertilizer when we start to get the plants off to a good start. If you can get some with a large pickup truck, this is the cheapest way to buy the soil. Here’s where I buy my soil. I like the Garden Mix. http://stlcompost.com/products-soil.htm
• Start Small
  A 10′ x 10′ garden is much easier to take care of than a garden 100′ X 100′.  Take into consideration how much time the care-taker has to maintain the garden.
• Use labels to identify the plants.
  I prefer metal stakes with labels made from a P-touch label maker. Here’s where I buy my stakes. http://www.eonindustries.com/e_nursery.html
  If you’re planting ten or more species, the teachers will appreciate the plant identification later in the year. Plants change dramatically as they get larger during the year.
• Plant both Host and Nectar Plants.
  Host plants are necessary for butterflies to lay their eggs and nectar plants to attract the butterflies for nectar. See the tip below for more specifics.
• Butterfly Gardening Book
  Give the teacher a copy of the “Ten Commandments of Butterfly Gardening.” It’s a FREE download. You can find man more butterfly gardening details in the book.
  http://www.butterflygardening.org/pdf/Book-TenCommBG.pdf 
• Perennials are great, but they don’t last forever.
  What I’ve learned from experience is that just because a plant has a “perennial” label doesn’t mean it will last for ten years. Plan on replacing plants in the future.
• Come back in late fall and plant seeds.
  I like to do this with a class. Collect the seeds in the garden during the summer and fall and let the kids plant in late fall for next years replacement plants.
• Find a location that is convenient for classes.
  Since the purpose of the butterfly garden is to be a resource for teachers, try and find a place as close as possible to the school.
• Consider ALL plants for the garden.
  I am currently helping a Boy Scout work on his Eagle project – putting in a butterfly garden for a grade school. One of the suggestions made to him was that this should only include Missouri native plants. While the suggestor was well-meaning, there are a number of things wrong with the idea. Although I always include many natives in the garden, I also include other plants better suited for a school setting.While native plants are great, they may become invasive and may not have the blooming characteristics that you want for a school garden.
• Where are you going to get your plants?
  I provide all the plants for the local school gardens, but there may be other free sources. I can guarantee there are local garden clubs whose members might be glad to share some of their plants. PTO’s and other organizations may also have funds available for you to buy plants for the garden. Also remember to try winter sowing seeds to get new plants in the spring.
• Bring cleanup tools for when you’re done.
  You might make a mess in the process of putting in the garden so bring along brooms and rakes to clean up the surrounding area.
• What’s Your Goal?
  While a butterfly garden can provide some beauty and natural area for the kids, it can also be a great learning tool for teachers. Instead of buying larvae to raise in the classroom, teachers can go out to the butterfly garden and collect then naturally. The University of Minnesota has some great teacher tools on their site. http://www.monarchlab.org/Default.aspx

Here’s a list of plants which I recommend for a school garden.

• Annuals – Nectar - globe amaranth, dianthus, marigold, salvia- lady in red, zinnia. Host/nectar – tropical milkweed.
• Bronze Fennel – host – perennial which black swallowtails use as a host plant.
• Echinacea purpurea – nectar - may bloom early enough before the school year ends.
• False Nettle – host – used by Red Admirals as a host plant.
• Gaillardia – nectar - blooms all year long – may over-winter and reseed itself.
• Hop Tree – host –  if you have space for a small tree, this is a great host for Giant Swallowtails.
• Lantana – nectar – a great nectar source which fills out a large area. It doesn’t need dead-heading.
• Liatris – nectar – meadow and eastern blazing – a great fall bloomer.
• Milkweed – host/nectar – aslcepias incarnata, tuberosa – short-lived perennials. Tropical milkweed is a great annual to attract the Monarchs in the fall.
• New England Aster – host/nectar – the traditional variety falls over and takes up lots of space. I’m trying a variety called Purple Dome this year.
• Pearly Everlasting – host – good host plant for Painted Ladies.
• Sedum – nectar – Autumn Joy type – will get large and floppy, but attracts fall butterflies.
• Shasta Daisy – nectar – blooms until early August
• Slender Mountain Mint – nectar – blooms into fall.
• Spider Flower – host/nectar - host for Cabbage Whites. It will reseed itself and blooms into the fall. Put in the back of the garden.
• Verbena bonariensis – nectar – a great plant – gets tall.
• Verbena tenuisecta – nectar – a low-grower which usually reseeds itself.

Purple Dome New England Aster

I saw this plant at the Missouri Botanical Garden in 2011 and admired its compact shape and great flowering. This was September 28th – a great time for the Monarch migration. I’m going to give it a try this year and found it at these sites.

- American Meadows - $4.26 or six for $3.73 each.

- High Country Gardens – $8.49

- Eden Brothers – $7.50 

-I ended up buying six plants from American Meadows for $30.24(includes shipping)

Cleaning the Garden for the New Season

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I have about twenty different garden areas in my yard and it takes quite a bit of time to clean up last years debris and trash. One new technique I have tried in the last few days with our record breaking 70 degrees in January is to use a hedge trimmer. It seems to work well for 90% of the garden.

In the past I have used a brush cutters and lawn trimmers and both do a pretty good job also. With my bad back though I find that both tools hurt a bit and I pay the price the next day.

With the hedge trimmer I can set it on the ground and move it back and forth and cut down all but the largest branches.

I’ve noticed a number of gardeners complaining of moth infestations and wonder if this type of clearing early in the year, before spring, might be a good way to reduce the moth population.

Park Seed – Old Seeds from Foreign Countries

I normally am very excited when I receive seeds for next years garden. When I received my Park Seed Co. seeds I was disappointed on two fronts.

1. Four of the five packages had dates of “Packed for 2011.” In other words, these were last years seeds for planting in 2011. As a gardener you don’t want old seeds as they have less of a chance of germinating.

2. All of the seeds are from foreign countries – Japan, France, Holland and Italy. It seems like we ought to be able to find a USA producer for things as simple as flower seeds.

What’s up Park Seed?

2012 Butterfly Gardening Calendar

March 5 – Gardeners of St. Charles County

April 14 (Saturday) – 10am – Powder Valley – FREE- reservations needed. Phone: (314) 301-1500

No date yet – Truman Middle School – plant garden

No date yet – Concord School – Joey – Eagle Project.

No date yet – plants for book club garden.

June 16 – NABA – home

Planting Outdoor Seeds – Dec. 1st

I planted at least 2000 seeds in three different areas. These are all seeds which need cold-stratification or seem to endure our cold winters and readily start from seed in the spring.

Note – I only planted Red/Cream echinacea in the mailbox area.

Fertilizer Use Indoors

As I transition from outdoors to indoor plants, I’m always looking to improve the system I have for growing indoor plants. There are many indoor fertilizer available and I thought I would show some options.

Always start with a good potting soil which has some fertilizer already in the soil.

That should last for two to four weeks for small containers, but then you’ll need to transition to larger containers or start using a soluble fertilizer.

I have good results using Miracle Gro soluble plant food with micronutrients. I mix a small amount – 1/8 tsp/ gallon when I do my watering.

Osmocote Plus and Dynamite Fertilizer are also two recommended fertilizers which will should last until spring.